Potted Cyclamen

It is a flower that includes about twenty species of herbaceous perennials, which develop large rounded tubers, native to the Mediterranean area; they are widespread across much of the globe as houseplants and garden plants, ideal for shaded beds. The tubers are planted at a depth equal to their radius. The leaves are rounded, slightly fleshy, borne on a long petiole; they are dark green, often marked by a striking green-silver variegation. The flowers appear in clusters, rising a few centimeters above the center of the leaves; they come in various colors, in shades of pink and red, with some varieties also featuring two colors. They have upward-facing petals, giving cyclamen flowers a distinctive and unmistakable shape. The flowering of cyclamen lasts several weeks, from September until spring.

Outdoor Cyclamen
Rustic cyclamen grow well outdoors in shaded or semi-shaded positions. They generally have smaller leaves than those grown indoors. The tubers are planted in late spring or late summer, at a depth of 3 to 4 centimeters in soil rich in organic matter, to which beech leaves and sand should be added, capable of retaining moisture while also being permeable to excess water. We water the soil periodically, but only when it is dry. After flowering, with the arrival of spring, the foliage wilts and the plants enter a dormant period; we should avoid watering them during this time of year. If desired, when the tubers are dormant, we can unearth them to relocate them.

Indoor Cyclamen
Semirustic cyclamen, on the other hand, must be grown indoors during the winter in cold climate areas.
In summer, watering should be abundant. During the winter, the optimal temperature is 18-20°C and should not drop below 15°C. We water regularly, but only when the soil is well dried, avoiding leaving water in the saucer or excessively wetting the foliage.

Indoor cyclamen are very sensitive to heat sources and overly dry air, which is why it is best to place them away from stoves, radiators, or other heat sources, and to regularly mist the leaves. During flowering, it is preferable to avoid spraying, as water tends to stain the petals; to increase ambient humidity, we can also place the pots in saucers or bowls filled with expanded clay, immersed in water: this way, the evaporating water will increase the ambient humidity without coming into contact with the plant roots.

How to Make Cyclamen Bloom Again
Once flowering is over, usually around February-March, cyclamen should be moved to an unheated environment or, for those fortunate enough to have one, to a cold greenhouse. Watering should be greatly reduced, and when the plant no longer produces leaves (usually around June), it should be completely stopped. In August, the pots are emptied, and the tubers are harvested. Old roots are removed, and the tubers are planted in a soil rich in organic matter with beech leaves and sand. Watering should be very abundant.

Propagation
Cyclamen can only be propagated from seed. The tubers do not reproduce and cannot be divided. Seeds should be collected in summer. Remember that indoor cyclamen must be pollinated to produce seeds. To do this, use a small brush to collect pollen from the anthers and deposit it on the stigmas. The seeds should then be sown in September.

Pests and Diseases
Cyclamen is a plant that is not frequently attacked by pests. Occasionally, aphid or mite infestations may occur. The use of a specific pesticide is recommended. However, it is susceptible to root rot and botrytis, fungal diseases that develop in cases of excessive watering, poorly draining substrate, and lack of ventilation.