Cyclamen in pot

It is a flower that includes about twenty species of perennial herbaceous plants, which develop large rounded tubers, native to the Mediterranean area; they are widespread in much of the globe as houseplants and garden plants, ideal for shaded flowerbeds. The tubers are buried at a depth equal to their radius. The leaves are rounded, slightly fleshy, carried by a long petiole; they are dark green, often marked by a showy silver-green zoning. The flowers appear in groups, in the center of the leaves, from which they rise a few centimeters; they are of various colors, in shades of pink and red, with even two-colored varieties. They have petals facing upwards, which give the cyclamen flowers a particular and unmistakable shape. The flowering of cyclamens lasts a few weeks, from September until spring

Outdoor cyclamen
Rustic cyclamens grow well outdoors in a shaded or semi-shaded position. They generally have smaller leaves than indoor cyclamens. The tubers are planted in late spring or late summer, at a depth of 3 or 4 centimeters in soil rich in organic matter, to which beech leaves and sand must be added, capable of retaining humidity, but at the same time permeable to excess water. We water the soil periodically, but only when it is dry. After flowering, with the arrival of spring, the foliage withers and the plants enter a vegetative rest; we avoid watering them at this time of year. If we wish, when the tubers are dormant we can dig them up to move them.

Indoor cyclamen
On the other hand, semi-rustic cyclamens in cold climate areas must be grown indoors during the winter.
In summer, watering must be abundant. During the winter period, the optimal temperature is 18-20°C and must not fall below 15°C. We water regularly, but only when the soil is very dry, and avoiding leaving water in the saucer or excessively wetting the foliage.

Indoor cyclamens suffer greatly from heat sources and air that is too dry, for this reason it is best to place them away from stoves, radiators, or other heat sources, and spray the leaves regularly. During flowering it is preferable to avoid vaporizations, since the water tends to stain the petals; to increase the humidity in the environment we can also place the containers in saucers or bowls filled with expanded clay, immersed in water: in this way the evaporating water will increase the humidity in the environment, without coming into contact with the roots of the plants.

How to make cyclamen bloom again
Once flowering is over, generally around February-March, cyclamens must be brought into an unheated environment or, for those lucky enough to have one, into a cold greenhouse. Watering must be greatly reduced and when the plant no longer produces leaves (usually around June) completely stopped. In August, the pots are emptied and the tubers are removed. The old roots are removed and the tubers are planted in soil rich in organic substance with beech leaves and sand. Watering must be very abundant.

Reproduction
Cyclamens can only be reproduced by seed. In fact, the tubers do not reproduce and cannot be divided. The seeds must be collected in the summer. Remember that indoor cyclamens must be pollinated to produce seeds. To do this, the pollen is collected from the anthers with a small brush and deposited on the stigmas. The seeds must therefore be sown in September

Parasites and diseases
Cyclamen is a plant that is not frequently attacked by parasites. Sometimes aphid or mite attacks may occur. The use of a specific pesticide is recommended. However, it fears root rot and botrytis, fungal diseases that develop in the case of excessive watering, poorly draining substrate and lack of ventilation.